Sunday, 4 July 2010

Patrones Pantalon Anudado - fail!

Oh, I liked them so much in the magazine... and they looked so easy to sew (got to love that), but no... not for me! The Pantalon Anudado, pattern no. 20 in issue no 291. Major fail when I tried to make them a couple of weeks ago.

See how nice they look in the magazine:

Cool, not too diapery, not too much fabric around the crotch. A nice and not too extreme take on the harem-pants, perfect for summer, right?

But sadly, oh no... they're not, don't be fooled! Or am I just a really bad seamstress? Could be. Not very used to using patterns other than my own, at least.

See? I really do look like I'm wearing a diaper. I think I chose the wrong material, I used a linen, I think it needs a much softer drape. Much, much softer...  They are lower in the waist than the original, because I didn't add the waistband before trying them on, and I folded the legs and didn't add cuffs, they're really as long as in the original. It's not all about the material though, even if I had used a different material they would have been wrong for me, in the picture I had pleated the waist about twice as much as indicated in the pattern (not really, but I added four or six extra darts). 

And I couldn't sew the legs as intended, or I did, but I simply couldn't even fit my feet through them unless I opened about 10cm's of the seams. How tiny feet do Spanish women have? And narrow calves? Or did I just not get the instructions? 

Makes me wonder about the size I chose, should I have choosen a larger size? I cut them in the smallest size, 40,  which I thought would be similar to my size, a european 34/36, UK 6, US 2 or XS. Does anyone have any experience in Patrone's sizing compared to apparel sizes (I still haven't quite sorted out the sizing used in sewing patterns).

I think one of the pattern-related problems may be that the crotch is straight, not curved, the material is to but cut on the fold so the whole front of the pant is just one piece, and the back another one. Easy to sew, but hard to fit!
Fortunately I wanted to make a wearable muslin first, so I didn't put much work in it and I still have quite a few metres left of the very much so not expensive linen I used. Which is fortunate, because I really like the colour. I should try washing some of it to see how it falls when all the starch is gone... (it must be starched).

I think I might try changing my old basic pant block into something similar but more 80's pant- and less harem-pant like instead. When I find the time that is...

Finally, if anyone's interested: the full instructions in typed text, for Google Translate. I didn't get far enough to use all of it, hopefully someone else will! I made it tiny to save space.

Aplicar fliselina en el revés de las cinturillas y en la mitad de los puños base, planchar. Coser entrepiernas y lados desde señal X. Hilvanar pliegues cintura pantalón. Doblar puños base derecho con derecho y coser extremos, girar puños y coser una tela de estos a las bases, según señal X formando abertura, entornar la tela opuesta de los puños, en el revés con un punto a mano. Unir la costura lado derecho de las cinturillas por separado, unirlas derecho con derecho y coser parte superior hasta lado izquierdo, girar y coser una tela de la cinturilla al pantalón abertura lado izquierdo. Aplicar la cremallera y entornar cinturilla. Unir las dos tiras para cinturón formando una sola, doblar derecho con derecho, cortar los extremos en diagonal y coser alredor dejando una abertura para girar, girar, entornar abertura y anudar delante.


  1. I have to say that it doesn't look that bad in the pictures. I can imagine it can feel a bit too baggy around your hips, I can't see very clear how baggy it is, but the legs look really elegant.

  2. They're not bad, but I could see how you'd feel weird in them. Wear them around the house if they're comfortable, you may find they grow on you. They do look interesting, though, not like a diaper.

  3. I can understand your frustration.
    I don't like that trousers' type. I think they turn the body's shape in this round thing, wich favours only the extreme skinny girls.
    But you are right about the bottom's leg opens. Even in picture is too narrow, those feet didn't pass those legs!!!

  4. Oh, I hate when thing like this happen. It feels like you've wasted a lot of time and energy. But, that's all the process of sewing.
    I've used the Patrones patterns several times, and I had troubles with sizing the first time I used them. I am size 38, according to Burda's measurements, and I cut the Patrones' pattern in size 40, but the blouse I traced was too big. The other time I traced the dress and it was too big, again. Now that I write these, it strikes me that we actually had the opposite problems... I'm not very helpful, am I? :)

  5. hey karin - I have seen you on burdastyle and looked at your blog a couple of times before, I haven't left any comments so far - but I just saw your latest post and just made a similar pair of pants, so I'll just give my thoughts: first of all, I made a couple of things from Patrones, and I would say that the patterns are quite mixed, as if made by different people. sometimes the fit is great and at other times really disappointing. I also got the impression that there are often lots of details on the clothes as photographed, but they don't seem to be all included on the actual pattern (ok, maybe my spanish isn't quite up to scratch to understand all of the instructions, but the patterns don't usually have many markings on them either). As for yor pants - they really look good from the front, even with the type of fabric. I think the back would look better without the pleats, just like 'normal' trousers. maybe you could try and change them. I made this pattern from burda. the crotch is a looot lower than yours, I know, actual harem pants, but the back is 'flat' and that's the only reason I can wear them.
    xx b

  6. Ooh, the always lovely and very clear instructions of the Patrones. I'm Spanish and I dont even understand half of the times. So let's see, my comments are in brackets:

    Apply (iron) interfacing to the wrong side of the waist parts and half the cuffs (I think it means the ankle/leg bands). Sew crotch and sides until you reach mark X. Baste pleats at waist. Take cuffs parts, right sides together, and sew sides (and length I'd say, although this is not specified), turn and sew one of the cuff pieces to the base of the leg, following mark X. The base of the leg should stay open (I think they mean that the leg finishes in a slit, but I could be wrong). Attach the loose side of the leg band (the one you have not sewen yet) by hand to the leg. Sew the waist parts on the right side, take both waist bands (right sides together) and sew them on the length till the left side (so, make a waist band like you always do). Turn and sew one of the sides to the waist of the pants, leaving the left side open. Sew the zipper (on this left side I guess) and turn the waist band (and sew it to the waist I suppose although it's not specified). The sash is made de with 2 strips, right sides together, sew around leaving one side open to turn it inside out, finish the open side. The sides should be cut diagonally.

    Oh dear ...

  7. They look cute from the front, but the back is rather, err, diaper-ish. I applaud you trying a different, fun pattern!

  8. Hm, let's see if I can come up with anything useful to add. First of all, I am experimenting with modest low-crotch trouser shapes myself, but have already decided last year that I don't like most of the standard shapes at the back (I'll write a post tomorrow about my latest endevour). I always stick with center front and back seams, with some of the usual shaping (most pattern making books do an alteration of the trouser block for belt pleated trousers, I've had good results with that).
    Secondly, looking at your pattern, I can't help but think that it looks like it was made for jersey or something like that. That would explain the drape and the narrow legs (although they tell you to use a zipper, but so does Burda in its patterns for jersey dresses...)

  9. Thank you all so very much for all hints and tips (and feedback, positive and negative, hehe)! I don't think I will make these pants, I already used the material in a toile for a hat, but I will remember your thoughts when I make the next pair, that I hope to find the time to make in August! I think they will based on be an altered trouser-block though, and I have a pair of semi-low crouch trousers that I like that I should probably examine first(making copies usually works for me...)!

  10. First of all, I don't think they look as bad as you think they do. But I can imagine that you feel uncomfortable due to the unfamiliar shape.

    The problem with Patrones is that they take whole photo series from other magazines and then make the pattern for those photographed garments. I don't even think that they make up the garments to control the fit, so it is a hit and miss with Patrones patterns. I am a Burda 36 and make a 40 in Patrones, so 40 should work for you too. Sometimes Patrones patterns fit great without adjustments and sometimes they are way off.

    I hope that you have more luck with the next Patrones patterns!

  11. Hi Karin,

    Don't give up on these trousers; just try another, lighter and more flexible (read more expensive :s) kind of fabric and give it another try!

    I've had many sililar diaper- nightmares myself already and this is a tip that always helps me save my ass in front of my eager-to-make-fun-of-me classmates in fashion school.

    Btw where can I get the pattern? I want to give them a try myself.

    Good luck to you!


  12. Everyone: thank you all again so much for lovely and very helpful comments!

    Natalie: The pattern is from a magazine, Patrones issue no 291.
    I don't think I will use this very pattern, but when/if I make another attempt at baggy trosers I'll keep your fabric suggestions in mind!


Related Posts with Thumbnails